Washers

I think what the Haynes manual refers to is the opposite of what you are getting. The tapered washers used on the disk brake set-up can sometimes tighten on the shaft/bearing before the hub is pulled up tight. Hence when you then take it on the road, the hub moves up and down the bearings causing a bad wobble and completely knackering the bearings. The washer they recommend (if you use it) is only used to tighten everything up, then you take the castle nut and washer back off and fit the correct tapered one.

If you're finding that the holes for the split pin are too far along and the split pin doesn't go through the 'castellations' in the nut then something is worn/incorrect. Are the bearings correct ? Is the nut correct? Is the tapered washer correct? Is the hub worn? Finally, daft question, why did you take it off?

 

Posted: Dec 06, 2008 05:40 PM

Front Wheel Bearing Problems

I had a similar problem with after correctly torqueing the nut with a flat washer then refitting the conical washer, there was a small amount of play. I disassembled the hub and removed the bearing spacer and removed 1 to 2 thou from the spacer until the play was no longer detectable with a DTI test gauge. I used Castrol wheel bearing grease. This small amount of play was also causing the disk breaks to shudder and cause uneven wear on the disks. Once the play was removed and the disks re-faced, the shudder stopped

Posted: Aug 15, 2023 10:21 AM

Swivel Hub Retaining Nut Torque Settings

Hi All, This is my first time on this forum so please be patient. I am getting my daughter's 1988 Mini Designer Mary Quant back on the road after being in a garage for the last 6 years. I have taken the engine out, the front sub frame off and am slowly checking and replacing all the suspension parts where required. I have also stripped down the O/S swivel hub and checked the tapered bearings and found they are ok. I have replaced the oil seals, now I need to know the torque setting. In my old Haynes circa 1995 in the supplement chapter and the main chapter two different figures are given. The car has discs at the front drums at the rear and the drive shaft has only one hole in it for the split pin. Nowhere does it say in my Haynes about tightening up first with a flat washer with the conical thrust washer removed. I should say that when I removed the tapered bearings I did not remove the inner part of each bearing or the spacer just the roller sections. The set of the bearings should not therefore have been changed. When I undid the nut very little effort was needed.  Regards Paddy

Posted: Oct 26, 2017 09:05 PM

Front Wheel Bearing Problems

Has anyone had front wheel bearings fail after low mileage due to the metal oil seal spacer ring missing?

This part is now listed as no longer necessary, but surely without it the whole hub and bearing sets will have too much play, even when torqued correctly.

Then of course there are the usual issues of Bearing and Bearing grease quality.

A friend swears blind to always use Timken bearings and Castrol BNS grease (which has not been availiable for years).

Also should the Castle hub nut be torqued with a flat washer and then retorqued with the cone washer?

Interested to hear how you guys and girls do it, and what grease you use.

Thanks, Mark Beckham.

Running a 1991. 998cc Jap export Mini in Canada! 

Posted: Jul 11, 2020 07:14 PM

Can anybody help??

 Is the c-washer the 1 that fits into the groove?like it has two squares on it that match up and slot into position within the hub?or am i thinking of the wrong part?

 I have just tried heat on it, but i dont think i have left it long enough. I had already tried the sharp 'Shock' to the end of the puller bolt to try and shock the flywheel out of its taper but had no joy. I have also tried tapping the flywheel and again, no joy.

When i apply heat, would it be better to keep the puller on and heat around it?and then get small turns of the puller bolt when possible?

Or should I remove the puller and just apply the heat to the whole hub area? 

Rob 

 

Posted: Jun 03, 2008 09:43 PM

Miscellaneous stuff for sale

Alright all,

      I don't know if any of you can use any of this stuff, here's what I have:

2 driveshafts with CV joints, both need cv's cleaned and new gaiters fitted, 25 pounds a piece ($50 US)

2  8.5" disc brake rotors and drive flanges.  Need to be machined, I can't get them machined here because no one in the entire city of Colorado Springs, a couple of hundred thousand people, can do it.  25 pounds a piece ($50 US)

1 hub with steering arms, needs cleaning, maybe resufacing 5 pounds($10 US)

1 998cc Head, 12g295 casting number.  Needs cleaning, 250 pounds($500 US)

LHD steering rack, nothing wrong with it, just want the original RHD, 20 pounds($40 US)

3 Syncro Gearbox, needs one hole repaired, but you could throw it in your mini today if you wanted to, or tomorrow depending on how quickly you could get the hole fixed.  500 pounds($1000 US)

Pressed steel rocker arms and supports  perfectly good, needs new rocker shaft and springs,spacers/washers 5 pounds($10 US) per rocker arm or support.

That's what I've got.  My prices are negotiable, and if you need any of the items above but don't want to pay what I'm asking, e-mail or post what you'd like to pay and I'll tell you yes or no, probably yes, as I want as much of this stuff gone as possible.  The Gearbox I will not come down on price however, as I think 500 pounds is reasonable, the gears alone are around that much, if not more, and they haven't been used.  The previous owner exchanged power units right away and pretty much threw this one aside, literally, hence the hole.

Hope to hear from someone!

James

Posted: Aug 12, 2007 07:15 AM